Mouse Problems

Oh yes, I said MOUSE...and actually MICE Problems. I've had more people talk about mice problems than ever before. We are actually cursed/blessed with these creatures. I'm not happy at all! I've always associated mice with filth...and if you've ever been to my house...it is close to spotless most the time. AGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!

Any ways, we have tried sticky pads, self containing traps and green poison, but they are not going away. It's very frustrating....extremely frustrating. I'm hoping that "Just One Bite" will actually work. Michael is supposed to go buy it today....so pray for us. The babies may look cute, but it's not cute at all. It's gross and disgusting! I've been going to extreme cleaning mode, which is driving Michael crazy.

I just want this to be resolved. We've never had to deal with them in our married life, so I guess it was time for our turn...I just don't like it. I will say....lots of people are dealing with this very problem...so Good luck to all of you dealing with it. One of my friends gave me some major advice so I thought I'd share. By the way....our mice have started leaving green droplets...so we know they are eating the poison, but they seriously are super mice...never thought I'd meet a rodent as stubborn as myself. :)


Mouse Control

Mice, mostly active at night, often invade homes during the fall months when outdoor temperatures become colder. Mice contaminate food for humans, pets and livestock. They can damage structures and property.

Mice, being so small, can gain entry to homes and buildings quite easily. They are excellent climbers, can leap twelve inches from the floor onto a flat space. Mice can squeeze through openings ¼ inch across. To effectively control mice involves sanitation, exclusion, and population reduction.

Sanitation and exclusion are preventative measures. Clean up areas that provide mouse habitat, and block access to home and buildings. Block openings with steel wool or foam insulation products. However, once a mouse infestation already exists, trapping or baiting is almost always a necessity to reduce populations.

Trapping works well when mice are not numerous or can be used as a follow-up measure after a baiting program. If you trap, you have a choice of snap traps or multi-capture live traps. Place traps where you see mice activity. Key sites are along walls, dark corners, or any site that shows mouse activity. Place traps no more than ten feet apart where you see mouse activity. Peanut butter is good bait for snap traps.

An alternative to traps are glue boards. Place glue boards near walls where mice travel. Do not place glue boards where children or other pets can reach them. If-non-target animals get caught on a glue board they can be removed by using vegetable oil as a solvent.

If you use baits to control mice be sure to read and follow all instructions. Most baits use an anticoagulant, to cause mouse death. Anticoagulants cause death due to internal bleeding the anticoagulant baits provide good to excellent mouse control when placed in suitable locations for mice. Anticoagulants have the same effect on all warm-blooded animals, but sensitivity to these toxins varies among species. If misused, anticoagulants can cause death to pets, livestock or desirable wildlife that feed on the bait. Residues of anticoagulants that may be present in bodies of dead or dying rodents can cause toxic effects to scavengers or predators. However, this secondary effect is relatively low where baits are used properly.

Baits often in pellet form, are packaged in plastic or cellophane packets to keep baits fresh and to be easily placed into burrow walls or other locations. Place baits no more than ten feet apart where mice are active.

Bait stations are useful when putting out baits. They protect the baits from weather and provide a safeguard to people, pets and wildlife. A bait station should have two openings one inch in diameter and should be large enough to accommodate several mice at one time.